Moodboard/Mindmap/Video Pitch

Recreating an Image

Exposure (1/80 sec.)    ISO-320    F-stop-f/1.8

Body: Nikon D5200

Lens: 35mm f/1.8g

Above is the original photograph taken by Lukasz Palka and below is my attempt at replicating

the image. 

The main difference you can see is that my image is much more zoomed in comparison images and this is because the lens that Palka uses is and ultra wide lens, which then means he is able to capture more of the subject.

When editing on Photoshop I decided to increase the exposure, however in comparison to the original it is still much darker as my photo was shot in an alley way unlike the original which was taken in an open street. Another change I made was adjusting the curves, along with the sliders for whites and blacks as I wanted the whites to appear much more in contrast to the blacks, and this is why the blacks are much more darker in the image.

Similar to the original image I wanted to frame my subject to either left or right, as this would make the image more interesting thus using the rule of thirds, by having the entire subject completely in focus it separates the foreground and the background, which is completely out of focus.

Rule of Thirds

Camera Settings

ISO: Various

Aperture: Various

Shutter Speed: Various

Body: Nikon D5200

Lens: 18-55mm/35mm

Rule of Thirds is breaking down the image into thirds both horizontally and vertically totalling in 9 boxes, as shown in the image below. When it comes to taking photographs bare in mind you should place your subjects within interesting areas within the grid, try avoiding taking pictures with your subject down the centre as this makes for boring images.

Some examples below are photos applying the rule of thirds, and note how the subjects are never centred in frame. 

Exposure (1/80 sec.)    ISO-320    F-stop-f/1.8

Exposure (1/200 sec.)    ISO-320    F-stop-f/5.6

Exposure (1/200 sec.)    ISO-250    F-stop-f/6.3

Interesting Framing

Camera Settings

ISO: Various

Aperture Various

Shutter Speed: Various

Body: Nikon D5200

Lens: 18-55mm/35mm

For this Task I had decided to focus on having subjects within some sort of frame, this makes it more interesting as by adding a frame in your picture it makes the subject stand out more clearly along with giving the photo more clarity which gives it a unique feel.

When looking for subjects which were within a frame I had to either look around or create my own, for example the first picture below I had my subject create  a frame with his hands and place it in front of the camera just close enough to fit within the frame.

The second image was taken on a bridge which had designs on the handrails and in the centre it perfectly aligned with the river. What I had done use an 18-55mm lens and zoom in towards the hole and focus on the river and its surroundings.

The final image was taken on a beach on my recent holiday abroad, as you can see the frame are the palm trees which are at the very left and right of the frame, and in the centre are small islands which you can see in the distance. 

Exposure (1/125 sec.)    ISO-100    F-stop-f/1.8

Exposure (1/250 sec.)    ISO-320    F-stop-f/5.6

Exposure (1/60 sec.)    ISO-500    F-stop-f/1.8

Lighting Techniques

Settings: ISO - Various

               Shutter Speed - Various

               Aperture - Various

Body: Nikon D5200/ Canon EOS 70D

Lens: 18-55mm/35mm

Lighting is an important factor when it comes to photography as the amount of lighting in a photo can be responsible for a creating a mood or atmosphere. 

Various examples of lighting techniques are things such as spotlighting, in which an amount of light is directly pointed towards the subject, which in turn can create shadows and create an overall mood for the picture.

Another technique is clamshell lighting in which you use multiple soft boxes and reflectors, by using reflectors you reduce the harsh light which can come from your light source and your subject will have a softer tone of lighting on their face, which in turn gives a smoother look to your photographs. 

Exposure (1/80 sec.)    ISO-320    F-stop-f/1.8

Exposure (1/80 sec.)    ISO-320    F-stop-f/1.8

Exposure (1/80 sec.)    ISO-320    F-stop-f/1.8

Large Depth of Field

Camera Settings

ISO: Various

Aperture: Various

Shutter Speed: Various

Body: Nikon D5200

Lens: 18-55mm/35mm

A large depth of field is when you capture a picture with most of the photograph being in focused. By having a lens such as the 18-55mm, you can zoom out all the way to 18mm and capture a wide photograph with everything within in being in focus. 

Below are several examples of photographs demonstrating a large depth of field. 

Exposure (1/125 sec.)   ISO-1000    F-stop-f/1.8

Exposure (1/10 sec.)    ISO-1600   F-stop-f/3.5

Exposure (1/400 sec.)    ISO-100    F-stop-f/2.8

Shallow Depth of Field

Camera Settings

ISO Various

Aperture Various

Shutter Speed Various

Body: Nikon D5200

Lens: 18-55mm

Achieving a shallow depth of field to your photographs can vary on the lens you have, as lenses have different f stops they can achieve, along with focal range. The lower your aperture is and the closer focusing distances then mean your are able to achieve a much more shallow depth of field.

When taking these pictures I had used an 18-55mm lens, from which I then zoomed in as far I can and focused on my subject, and what a shallow depth of field will do to your photograph is separate your subject clearly from the background.

Examples below are taken with a shallow depth of field. 

Exposure (1/1000 sec.)    ISO-160    F-stop-f/5.6

Exposure (1/50 sec.)    ISO-1000    F-stop-f/5.6

Exposure (1/250 sec.)    ISO-250   F-stop-f/7.1